Welcome to your comprehensive guide to caring for kinky and/or coily hair (types 4a – 4c). This step-by-step guide is here to help you craft the perfect routine that suits your unique needs and keeps your hair healthy, thriving, and popping!
Your kinky/coily hair is a beautiful, unique gift. It’s the tightest curl pattern of all hair types and it’s got personality to spare. We know that kinky/coily hair can be particularly prone to dryness because of the tight curl pattern that makes it challenging for the scalp’s natural oils to travel down the hair shaft. Because of this, our dear kinky hair often needs that extra TLC and hydration to keep it looking and feeling its best. Buckle up as we dive into an array of tips and tricks to help you find the ideal routine and products for your hair.
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Understanding the Wash Routine for Coily, Kinky Hair
One of the biggest challenges kinky/coily hair faces is maintaining and retaining moisture. Therefore, it’s crucial to pick products that are chock-full of hydrating ingredients that will nourish your strands from root to tip. Dry hair is more susceptible to breakage, so having well-moisturized hair is the bedrock of any healthy hair routine. Keeping your hair clean and moisturized also encourages hair growth for naturally curly and Afro-textured hair.
Washing Frequency: Finding Your Balance
Figuring out how often you should wash your hair is a personal decision, which can depend on several factors. These include your personal schedule, the rate at which your hair accumulates product build-up, and how physically active you are, among other things.
However, many people with type 4 hair find that washing their hair once a week strikes the right balance. If you discover that washing your hair once a week doesn’t quite cut it, consider washing it twice a week or adding a mid-week co-wash to your routine.
“What’s a cowash?”, you ask? It involves using a cleansing conditioner instead of a shampoo, which offers a more gentle, moisturizing cleanser.
Picking the Right Shampoo: Go Sulfate-Free
Many shampoos on the market contain harsh sulfates. These detergents can strip your hair of its natural oils in the process of cleaning it, leaving it dry and prone to damage. Thankfully, there are fantastic sulfate-free alternatives like Briogeo’s Don’t Despair, Repair Super Moisture Shampoo, or Shea Moisture’s Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo, both of which can cleanse kinky hair thoroughly without leaving it high and dry.
Briogeo Don't Despair Repair Super Moisturizing Shampoo for Dry Damaged Hair,...
Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Shampoo and Conditioner Set, Deep Moisturizing...Pre-Poo: Your Pre-Shampoo Secret Weapon
Before you wonder if we’re making up words, let’s break down what a pre-poo (short for pre-shampoo) treatment is. It involves applying an oil and/or conditioner to your hair before the washing process to soften the hair and provide extra moisture.
Some people also find it beneficial to detangle their hair during this step, which can help prevent further tangling during the shampoo process.
All you need to do is leave the oil and/or conditioner on your hair for at least 30 minutes before washing it out. Products such as coconut oil, olive oil, or a rich conditioner like Matrix Miracle Creator Leave-In Conditioner Spray and TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask can work wonders for this process.
Matrix Miracle Leave-In Conditioner Spray, Moisturize & Detangle, Frizz Control...
tgin Honey Miracle Hair Mask for Natural Hair - 12 oz - Dry Hair - Curly Hair -...The Power of Deep Conditioning
Deep conditioning is essential, especially for kinky/coily hair.
If you have type 4 hair, deep conditioning either once a week or at least once every two weeks is an absolute must. This helps you take your hair health to a whole new level.
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Your choice of deep conditioner or hair mask should ideally contain hydrating ingredients such as cocoa butter, aloe vera juice, honey, and olive oil. Trial and error might be needed to figure out the deep conditioning schedule and products that work best for your hair.
Once you apply your deep conditioner, covering your hair with a plastic cap and leaving it in for at least 15 minutes and up to an hour, depending on the instructions on the product, is ideal. You can also sit under a warm dryer to enhance the effects of the conditioner. Some deep conditioners you might want to try include Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Hair Mask or the Olaplex No. 8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask.
Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask, 16.9 Fl. Oz.
Olaplex No. 8 Bond Intense Moisture MaskThe LOC or LOG Method
The LOC or LOG method is very popular among the textured hair community. LOC stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream (or Liquid, Oil, Gel in the LOG method). This refers to the order in which you should apply these products to your hair. The liquid can be either water or a water-based leave-in conditioner.
Layering these products in this order can help kinky hair retain moisture for longer. Use the LOC or LOG method after you shampoo and condition your hair and before you style it.
If you’re doing a style like a twist-out, your “cream” can be a twisting cream or butter like Cantu Shea Butter Twist And Lock Gel, and if you’re doing a wash-and-go, your “G” can be a botanical styling gel that provides strong but flexible hold and won’t leave your hair feeling crunchy like Aunt Jackie’s Curl La La Defining Curl Custard. For the “O” in your method, you can try oils like olive oil, jojoba oil, or argan oil.
Cantu Moisturizing Twist & Lock Gel with Shea Butter for Natural Hair, 13 oz...
Aunt Jackie's Curl La La, Lightweight Curl Defining Custard, Enriched with Shea...Drying Your Hair: The Less Heat, the Better
Too much heat can spell disaster for kinky/coily hair, leading to breakage and damage. Whenever possible, allow your hair to air dry. To speed up the drying process, style your hair when it’s damp instead of soaking wet and avoid using too much product, which will extend the drying time.
Alternatively, you can use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment or a hooded dryer on a low heat or cool setting to hasten the drying process. When unraveling styles like twist-outs, braid-outs, or rod sets, coat your fingers with a lightweight oil to avoid frizz and impart a little extra shine.
FHI Heat Platform All-In-One Blow Out Handle Less Hair Dryer with Attachment...Caring for Your Strands: Gentle Does It
Kinky/coily hair can be quite fragile, making it susceptible to breakage from too much manipulation. Handle your hair with the gentleness it deserves.
Sectioning and Styling
Divide your hair into sections when washing, conditioning, and styling. Opt for low-manipulation styles whenever possible to avoid excessive daily styling.
Detangling
Always detangle your hair from the ends upwards, using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. This will help minimize breakage.
Maintaining Styles Overnight
Protect your styles overnight by using the pineapple method (a loose, high ponytail) and covering your hair with a satin bonnet or scarf to minimize friction.
Remember, everyone’s routine will vary, but these tips should give you a great starting point. Always handle your hair gently, strive to prevent breakage, and aim to use products that respect the integrity of your curls. Got any other tips for caring for kinky/coily hair? Let us know in the comments! We’d love to hear from you!
FAQ’s
1. What is the LOC or LOG method?
The LOC or LOG method stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream (or Liquid, Oil, Gel in the LOG method). This is a process used in the hair care routine where products are applied to the hair in a specific sequence to maximize moisture retention.
2. How often should I wash my 4a-4c hair?
This really depends on your personal preference and your hair’s needs. Some people find washing once a week works well, while others might need to do it twice a week or add a mid-week co-wash. It’s all about finding what works best for your hair.
3. Can I use regular shampoo for my kinky/coily hair?
It’s advisable to use a sulfate-free shampoo for kinky/coily hair as it is less likely to strip the hair of its natural oils. Sulfate-free shampoos clean the hair gently without leaving it dry.
4. What’s the importance of deep conditioning?
Deep conditioning nourishes and hydrates your hair, making it softer, easier to manage, and less prone to breakage. It’s especially crucial for type 4 hair which tends to be naturally drier than other hair types.
5. How can I reduce breakage in my kinky/coily hair?
To reduce breakage, ensure your hair is well moisturized and handle it gently. Opt for low-manipulation styles, always detangle from ends to roots, and protect your hair at night with a satin bonnet or scarf.
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